Dear Beauty Chick…I need help with my scalp!

Dear Beauty Chick,

I’m so frustrated! I have these things, they seem like pimples or clogged pores, on my scalp and along my hairline. Sometimes, they even hurt and they make me feel really self-conscious. What’s worse is I’ve struggled with them for years! I’ve tried all sorts of products for dandruff and oily scalp, including acne products, but nothing ever seems to stick. I’m tired of dealing with this- please help.

Sincerely,

Viv

Dear Viv,

It sounds like you’re struggling with scalp folliculitis, basically, it’s an infection of the hair follicle, which causes inflammation and often pain and/or itching. Folliculitis is most often seen on the scalp but can manifest anywhere on the skin where hair grows. When a follicle or pore becomes plugged up with sebum (a delightful combo of dead skin cells, oils and dirt), those oils can simply become oxidized and form a hard, dark plug- a blackhead. Most of us probably have one or two of those going on at any given time, eventually as we go through our daily cleansing routines, cells blocking the follicle or pore are exfoliated and it becomes cleared of the blockage. In the case of folliculitis however, bacteria, yeast or fungus find their way into the mix so, when the follicle becomes blocked, our white blood cells kick into action to try to kill the infection. This is what leads to the whiteheads or worse. This immune response is also responsible for the redness, swelling that can occur.  If left untreated, complications of scalp folliculitis can include hair thinning, hair loss or, in extreme cases, scarring.

If left untreated, complications of scalp folliculitis can include hair thinning, hair loss or, in extreme cases, scarring.

Yikes! My guess is though, that you’re nowhere near that point, otherwise you’d have skipped right over me and straight to the dermatologist.

Right off the bat, if you are taking any prescription medications that are hormone related or if you suffer from any medical conditions that effect your hormones or immune system, go ahead and make an appointment with your dermatologist first, and then finish reading. Additionally, if at any point you have a fever over 101 degrees or the affected area becomes red, enflamed or painful, you should see a physician immediately. Now that we’re past all the ‘just in cases’…

You say you have been struggling with this for years, so it’s possible that if there is a bacterial component to your folliculitis, you’ll need to see a physician for a round of antibiotics to completely eliminate it. Before we simply slap a scipt on it, though, I do have some recommendations for you to implement. Ideally, we want to fight the microbial component, eliminate any possibilities for re-infection, and help rebalance your skin so that it’s ready to protect itself again.

Something that is often overlooked in Western medicine when it comes to treatment of skin-related ailments is pH. The acidity or alkalinity of a substance is measured on the pH scale, which goes from 1-14. From 1-7 is acidic, 7 is neutral, and from 7 up to 14 is alkaline (basic). Although our bodies tend to be slightly alkaline, with a pH of around 7.5, our skin has what’s called an acid mantle, which is a protective, oily layer on the surface. The acid mantle is (you guessed it) acidic, with a pH of between 4 and 5.5. This acidity creates an environment that discourages the proliferation of bacteria, fungi and yeasts on the skin. If this naturally occurring barrier is supposed to serve the purpose of preventing microbial growth on the skin, then it stands to reason that a presence of microbial growth might indicate a problem with the acid mantle, namely a shift in pH. The higher (less acidic) the pH of the skin becomes, the more susceptible it is to infection and a slew of other skin problems including eczema and psoriasis. Restore your skin’s natural acidity, however, and you’re restoring an imbalance that the folliculitis is thriving on. Soaps, which can have a pH as high as 11 (very alkaline), can strip away our acid mantle leaving our skin vulnerable. Also, Chlorine in our water (a known carcinogen) is not only vaporized in the hot water allowing us to breath in very small quantities of it, but it dries out our skin, hair and nails as well, leaving them vulnerable while your skin rebuilds its acid mantle (which can take hours!).

So here are my recommendations, along with my reasons:

1. Invest in a shower water filter.  It doesn’t have to be the top of the line, it just has to filter out chlorine and basic minerals like calcium and iron, which contribute to water hardness and also make soap harder to rinse away. The one I’ve been using for a few years is JONATHAN Beauty Water (www.jonathanproduct.com), shower purification system.  Read here for a full list of benefits. The unit costs $95 and contains our first filter and a pretty nice shower head.  I’ve found mproved water pressure, but the flow rate is only 2.5 gallons per minute!  Replacement filters are $55 and they last about 6 months for one person.
2. Clean, Clean, Clean!  Although many of us have heard a zillion time not to wash your hair too often, in your case, you really do want to wash it every day to keep the microbial component at bay. Only shampoo your roots and then rinse it through. Additionally, if you put your hair in a towel when it’s wet, use a clean towel each time and don’t use that towel for anything else. Also, especially if you wash your hair in the morning rather than at night, change your pillowcase out at least 1-2 times a week. You’ll also want to sanitize your brushes, combs and hair accessories. Avoid hats, headbands and scarves as well.
3. Don’t Fear Oil! Oil is your friend. I know we hear all over the place to avoid oils, but natural oils are some of the best healers and have properties from antioxidant, to anti-inflammatory to anti-microbial. Unlike mineral oil and petroleum derived ingredients, natural oils are synergistic with your skin and can actually help prevent breakouts. Some great oils are jojoba, hazelnut and coconut.
4. Check Your Products. Make sure your shampoo is free of sulfates or soaps, and avoid any hair products that have silicones. I’m not always opposed to them in small amounts in certain products, however in your case, steer clear. Because you’ll be washing every day, you’ll want to condition your ends so they don’t get dried out. I recommend Rare Elements Essential Conditioner, it’s super concentrated so you only need a little bit and it’s packed with healing and nourishing essential oils.
5. Treat. Unless you have an allergy (always do a patch test on your arm first to check), incorporating organic tea tree essential oil into your products can be hugely beneficial. Just a few drops (maybe 5), added to your shampoo, and tea tree’s natural anti-microbial properties will help combat bacteria, yeast or fungus without introducing antibiotics or sensitizing your scalp.

Between, eliminating excess chlorine and minerals, using a mild shampoo and conditioner everyday, sanitizing the items your scalp comes into contact with regularly and treating the infection, you should be well on your way to a healthy scalp within four to five days. If you don’t see improvements in this time frame, it’s time to see a physician who may take a sample from an affected follicle to determine what kind of infection it is and determine a more intensive course of treatment which can include antibiotics, anti-fungal meds or topical steroids.

Fun little extras: For a great explanation on how soap works, see this link to the SDA’s (Soap and Detergent Association-yeah, there really is one) website http://www.sdahq.org/sdalatest/html/soapchemistry1.htm.

Photo courtesy stock.xchng.

Photo courtesy www.zeolitesupport.com.

Shayna Teicher

After nearly three years managing a bath and beauty boutique, Shayna decided to go out on her own and open Butterfly Effect, a holistic, eco-conscious beauty boutique located in Sarasota, Florida. Our very own “Beauty Chick”, read Shayna’s other intriguing articles and product reviews here.